Three Sisters Marathon 9.18.08 (Buck)

From Three Sisters Marathon

So, you can never really trust a climber when they say their climbing season is over. Really, there's always something that's in condition to climb. Though my boots were stored for the fall and my mind wandering towards the crags, a new opportunity arose in Central Oregon.

Shantanu, a very fit coworker and friend, suggested we attempt the Three Sisters Traverse, that is, climbing the North, Middle, and South Sister peaks in a 24 hour period. Many people up the ante by adding Broken Top and Mt. Bachelor, but we stuck with the traditional 3 peak voyage.

There is no getting around the fact that the Central Oregon Cascade peaks are of poor rock quality. Experiencing no less than 7 types of scree and talus on this journey we were well aware of the rapid deconditioning of these mountains. Nonetheless, adding three peaks into a single climbing effort was something worth trying.

None of these peaks are exciting on their own this time of year, nor do they require any particular technical aptitude. Just the willingness to endure, as we found out when we made it to the car 16 hours after beginning our climb. The views from each provide something worth savoring, though. And the terrain provides enough interest to keep one engaged.

A great challenge, great weather, and a great partner combined to make it a most memorable day.

Forbidden Peak 9.4.08 (Buck)

From Forbidden Peak (Buck)

Well, the closing of a very sweet and successful alpine season culminated in the ascent of a true Cascades Classic. The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is a great climb that embodies many of the elements that draw climbers from around the world. A great base camp, a straight forward approach, and killer views with a moderate rock route. It's no wonder it's considered one of the 50 Classic climbs of North America.

This Peak, located in the "American Alps", is known for constantly changing weather and variable views. A clear day can rapidly deteriorate into a rain-spitting whiteout. Moving quickly and efficiently is the name of the game.

I met with Rick, a fellow climber from cascadeclimbers.com who was interested in doing the route. A strong climber indeed, our team was not to be denied this day. Despite some late season difficulties with the melted out snow approach, we managed some moss filled gullies that proved the most difficult part of the day. A few hours later a sweet summit experience. Later that evening a beautiful North Cascades sunset, the likes of which few are treated to in this tempestuous micro climate. Enjoy the photos and see you next season!!