Mt. Stuart 7.14.08 (Buck)

Mt. Stuart 7.14.08

I've been on an alpine binge lately, so eager to get outside after a winter of training. As soon as I returned from Mt. Jefferson there was an email from Nate asking if I had time for Mt. Stuart this week. The timing was tight so we decided to do a car to car (single push, no camping), leaving bivy gear behind in favor of moving fast and light.

We left Portland at 9:30 pm on Sunday night and got to the trailhead at 2:30am. We began hiking immediately on limited sleep. This turned out to be a bad idea. The next 18 hours proved to be a grueling ordeal, one of the hardest physical feats I've ever endured. This peak is a big undertaking under any circumstances and on an hour's sleep it seemed impossible at times.

Mt. Stuart is a large granitic peak, a true gem for PNW climbers. With steep lines and clean rock it provides a virtual playground for the technical rock climber. Add a four hour approach and a four hour deproach and you have a very long day. The last hike up Long's Pass at hour 17 was a psychological and physical test at it's apex...is it ignoble to stop an hour from the car?...

The NW Face route we chose was not as good as advertised, though it did provide moments of joy. Nate and I agreed, however, that the route did not warrant the great effort of getting to it and then off the mountain. Regardless, it was good to become familiar with this peak, as it's reputation is known worldwide among climbers. Next time, a bivy on route would make this trip a lot more fun. Though it was interesting to realize what the body is capable of when pushed to the limit.

Mt. Jefferson 7.10.08 (Buck)

Mt. Jefferson 7.10.08

Mt. Jefferson, considered by some a "manlier" version of it's northern neighbor Mt. Hood. If manlier means gritty, dangerous, and more of an undertaking to summit then yes, it is a damn manly mountain.

The route we took was the Jefferson Park Glacier. It is easily the most interesting route on the mountain as it combines multiple alpine techniques including glacier travel and technical rock skills.

For this trip I met a new partner, introduced through a mutual friend. Jason turned out to be a great climbing partner as our styles and strengths seemed to compliment one another well. And just ask this guy about Spotted Owls, he'll teach you how to call for 'em if you want to know.

We started the morning on the Jeff Park Glacier, leaving high camp at 3am. By 5 am the sun was rising as we were negotiating the first of two bergschrunds (large crevasse). This led us to steep glacier travel of about 50 degrees up to the col at the top of the JPG. From there we simulclimbed the Knife Edge Ridge (5.1), with laughable exposure, about 2,000ft. drop on each side! Hey, it was laugh or poop, might as well have fun with it. After the technical ridge we continued along the rim until the second arete and then the summit pinnacle. Again we simulclimbed the pinnacle 4th-low 5th class and found ourselves on the summit.

The descent turned out to be the most hair-raising portion of the climb and for details there, I'll refer you to our trip report on cascadeclimbers.com.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=816050

All in all this is easily one of my favorite alpine routes. The diversity and beauty of the mountain keeps one engaged at all times. As for the manly factor, heck yes, there were moments that felt more like a bar fight than a stroll in the hills. As for going back for more, you betcha.