Cordoba and Mendoza

Cordoba to Mendoza

We're packing our things and leaving Mendoza for Santiago de Chile. The last week has been my favorite as we've managed to escape the city life a bit and experience what the mountains and country side have to offer. This means climbing and wine, respectively. Please click the album link above and take a tour of this very special place. Love you all!

Buenos Aires and Cordoba

Buenos Aires and Cordoba

Greeting all,

We are now in Cordoba, the heart of Argentina. This city hosts the most cathedrals and universities in the country, many dating back to the 1700s. We had a good time wrapping up our trip in Buenos Aires and are glad to be in a smaller city now. Yesterday we took a day trip to the river and swam. It was the first time out of the hustle and bustle of major metropolitan areas and the air was fresh and clean. A good time for sure.

We're visiting museums today and may go climb in the hills surrounding the city over the weekend. Every day is something new and as we meet people and hear their experiences we determine our next steps. It is very adventurous.

Miss you all, but not so much I'm ready to come back!

Bienvenidos a Buenos Aires

Patagonia

Hello Friends,

My dad and I have had an exciting few days here in Buenos Aires! The day we arrived we explored our neighborhood a little bit, had a late dinner and ended up drinking Quilmes beer until 2 in the morning! It just seemed right. We find our days typically starting around 11 a.m. as the schedule of life is just different here. The warmest part of the day we usually hide out in museums or cathedrals, then back out in the evening to explore the city. Dinner ends up lasting four hours no matter where we go and every bottle of wine has been a gem so far. I don't think you would like it here at all.

Clearly this city is the hub of the country. Much of the culture and ideas associated with Argentina flow through this Port. Highlights of our tour include a trip to the Recoleta Cemetery, where the mausoleums are amazing, a small city of the dead. The bulk of the country's historic dignitaries are buried here including many presidents, generals, revolutionaries, and Eva Peron as well. Last night we went to a Tango show, a tourist event no doubt, but it was amazing! The dancers were true athletes and put on a great show. Unfortunately we couldn't take pictures during the program, guess you'll have to come see for yourself.

This post is brief just to let everyone know we have arrived and are having a great time so far. People here are friendly and helpful when it comes to our pathetic Spanish. English resources are much more limited in the city than we had imagined, but many things are universal and language is a minor barrier when it comes to getting coffee!

Love to you all

James

Three Sisters Marathon 9.18.08 (Buck)

From Three Sisters Marathon

So, you can never really trust a climber when they say their climbing season is over. Really, there's always something that's in condition to climb. Though my boots were stored for the fall and my mind wandering towards the crags, a new opportunity arose in Central Oregon.

Shantanu, a very fit coworker and friend, suggested we attempt the Three Sisters Traverse, that is, climbing the North, Middle, and South Sister peaks in a 24 hour period. Many people up the ante by adding Broken Top and Mt. Bachelor, but we stuck with the traditional 3 peak voyage.

There is no getting around the fact that the Central Oregon Cascade peaks are of poor rock quality. Experiencing no less than 7 types of scree and talus on this journey we were well aware of the rapid deconditioning of these mountains. Nonetheless, adding three peaks into a single climbing effort was something worth trying.

None of these peaks are exciting on their own this time of year, nor do they require any particular technical aptitude. Just the willingness to endure, as we found out when we made it to the car 16 hours after beginning our climb. The views from each provide something worth savoring, though. And the terrain provides enough interest to keep one engaged.

A great challenge, great weather, and a great partner combined to make it a most memorable day.

Forbidden Peak 9.4.08 (Buck)

From Forbidden Peak (Buck)

Well, the closing of a very sweet and successful alpine season culminated in the ascent of a true Cascades Classic. The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is a great climb that embodies many of the elements that draw climbers from around the world. A great base camp, a straight forward approach, and killer views with a moderate rock route. It's no wonder it's considered one of the 50 Classic climbs of North America.

This Peak, located in the "American Alps", is known for constantly changing weather and variable views. A clear day can rapidly deteriorate into a rain-spitting whiteout. Moving quickly and efficiently is the name of the game.

I met with Rick, a fellow climber from cascadeclimbers.com who was interested in doing the route. A strong climber indeed, our team was not to be denied this day. Despite some late season difficulties with the melted out snow approach, we managed some moss filled gullies that proved the most difficult part of the day. A few hours later a sweet summit experience. Later that evening a beautiful North Cascades sunset, the likes of which few are treated to in this tempestuous micro climate. Enjoy the photos and see you next season!!

Mt. Washington 8/26 (Buck and Pixie)

Mt. Washington

With Meg's newfound penchant for alpine climbing, we decided to attempt another big climb right here in our home state. Mt. Washington has notorious reputation for being loose, crumbly, and downright insecure at times. For some reason though, the Cascades Climber is compelled to climb this peak as a badge of honor and to be able to say "Yes, I have climbed Mt. Chossington".

Our original intent had been to climb up Monday night and sleep on the summit, however, the clear forecast predicted turned out not to be. When we arrived the summit was buried in a deep blanket of clouds along with the rest of the Southern Cascades. The temperature had taken a decided downturn as well and "cold and wet" is never something one aspires to be. We decided we'd hang around Central Oregon for the day and make a summit bid the next day if it was clear.

We took a short hike up Black Butte and soaked up the valley views, a cool perspective above the area. We'd like to go back on a clearer day to see all the peaks that were described on neat placards at the summit. That night we went to Bend and had a few brews at Deschutes Brewery...I highly recommend the Red Chair IPA!

We slept that night in the truck, back on Black Butte, with a clear view of where Mt. Washington should be if the clouds cleared. Sure enough the next morning offered a clear view and our climb was on!

The hiking route provided some interesting twists and turns as we climbed away from Big Lake, even joining the Pacific Crest Trail for about 5 minutes. Then, a steep climb up to the ridge above treeline. From there a loose lava rock traverse led to the base of the summit pinnacle, and the true attraction of the climb. It's always satisfying to finish a climb on rock, don't know why, just is.

The summit pinnacle was the crumbling-detritis-lacking-protection-placements-chosspile that it had been advertised to be. Luckily, the climbing wasn't difficult (though the Mazamas group behind us that took 2 hours on the first pitch might disagree). The views from the top were stellar and the thought of spending a night up there with all the stars and outlines of giant peaks was really appealing. The fact that is was only about 45 degrees in the middle of the afternoon quickly disturbed that poetic notion however.

We rappelled back down to the notch that marks the beginning rock route, and flew down the scree slope to the meadow below and exited via a slightly different route. It was a nice finish through the lush meadow that had only so recently melted out of snow, and so soon would be blanketed again.

A really great adventure, to be sure. Will we climb it again soon? Probably not, maybe not ever. Are we glad we did? A day in the mountains beats a day at work!

Prusik Peak 8.12-15.08 (Buck and Pixie)

Prusik Peak

Back in April Meg and I submitted our request for a much coveted permit in the Enchantment Zone of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. We were granted instead, a permit for the Snow Lakes Zone next door. Not a bad second prize. We ended up in a beautiful camp at Upper Snow Lake. The next day we hiked to the upper bench of the Enchantment Zone to climb Prusik Peak, one that's been on my list for a long time. It met and exceeded all expectations. Great rock and a great position high above the alpine lakes. We couldn't have asked for better weather on this trip. Enjoy the photos!