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| Mt. Jefferson 7.10.08 |
Mt. Jefferson, considered by some a "manlier" version of it's northern neighbor Mt. Hood. If manlier means gritty, dangerous, and more of an undertaking to summit then yes, it is a damn manly mountain.
The route we took was the Jefferson Park Glacier. It is easily the most interesting route on the mountain as it combines multiple alpine techniques including glacier travel and technical rock skills.
For this trip I met a new partner, introduced through a mutual friend. Jason turned out to be a great climbing partner as our styles and strengths seemed to compliment one another well. And just ask this guy about Spotted Owls, he'll teach you how to call for 'em if you want to know.
We started the morning on the Jeff Park Glacier, leaving high camp at 3am. By 5 am the sun was rising as we were negotiating the first of two bergschrunds (large crevasse). This led us to steep glacier travel of about 50 degrees up to the col at the top of the JPG. From there we simulclimbed the Knife Edge Ridge (5.1), with laughable exposure, about 2,000ft. drop on each side! Hey, it was laugh or poop, might as well have fun with it. After the technical ridge we continued along the rim until the second arete and then the summit pinnacle. Again we simulclimbed the pinnacle 4th-low 5th class and found ourselves on the summit.
The descent turned out to be the most hair-raising portion of the climb and for details there, I'll refer you to our trip report on cascadeclimbers.com.
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=816050
All in all this is easily one of my favorite alpine routes. The diversity and beauty of the mountain keeps one engaged at all times. As for the manly factor, heck yes, there were moments that felt more like a bar fight than a stroll in the hills. As for going back for more, you betcha.
1 comment:
These images blow me away. The angle of repose on the bergshrunds with the image of the climber's degree of difficulty and route quicken my heartbeat. What me worry? Yes, a bit since this goes way beyond Muir's advice to "climb the mountains and get their good tidings and cares will fall off like autumn leaves". These two fellows are definitely living in the present, carpe diem. Tis a good thing a nurse was present to give advice and care for wounded appendages. This set of story and images raised the adrenalin in this old guy. Inspiring. Thanks.
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