Mt. Washington 8/26 (Buck and Pixie)

Mt. Washington

With Meg's newfound penchant for alpine climbing, we decided to attempt another big climb right here in our home state. Mt. Washington has notorious reputation for being loose, crumbly, and downright insecure at times. For some reason though, the Cascades Climber is compelled to climb this peak as a badge of honor and to be able to say "Yes, I have climbed Mt. Chossington".

Our original intent had been to climb up Monday night and sleep on the summit, however, the clear forecast predicted turned out not to be. When we arrived the summit was buried in a deep blanket of clouds along with the rest of the Southern Cascades. The temperature had taken a decided downturn as well and "cold and wet" is never something one aspires to be. We decided we'd hang around Central Oregon for the day and make a summit bid the next day if it was clear.

We took a short hike up Black Butte and soaked up the valley views, a cool perspective above the area. We'd like to go back on a clearer day to see all the peaks that were described on neat placards at the summit. That night we went to Bend and had a few brews at Deschutes Brewery...I highly recommend the Red Chair IPA!

We slept that night in the truck, back on Black Butte, with a clear view of where Mt. Washington should be if the clouds cleared. Sure enough the next morning offered a clear view and our climb was on!

The hiking route provided some interesting twists and turns as we climbed away from Big Lake, even joining the Pacific Crest Trail for about 5 minutes. Then, a steep climb up to the ridge above treeline. From there a loose lava rock traverse led to the base of the summit pinnacle, and the true attraction of the climb. It's always satisfying to finish a climb on rock, don't know why, just is.

The summit pinnacle was the crumbling-detritis-lacking-protection-placements-chosspile that it had been advertised to be. Luckily, the climbing wasn't difficult (though the Mazamas group behind us that took 2 hours on the first pitch might disagree). The views from the top were stellar and the thought of spending a night up there with all the stars and outlines of giant peaks was really appealing. The fact that is was only about 45 degrees in the middle of the afternoon quickly disturbed that poetic notion however.

We rappelled back down to the notch that marks the beginning rock route, and flew down the scree slope to the meadow below and exited via a slightly different route. It was a nice finish through the lush meadow that had only so recently melted out of snow, and so soon would be blanketed again.

A really great adventure, to be sure. Will we climb it again soon? Probably not, maybe not ever. Are we glad we did? A day in the mountains beats a day at work!

Prusik Peak 8.12-15.08 (Buck and Pixie)

Prusik Peak

Back in April Meg and I submitted our request for a much coveted permit in the Enchantment Zone of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. We were granted instead, a permit for the Snow Lakes Zone next door. Not a bad second prize. We ended up in a beautiful camp at Upper Snow Lake. The next day we hiked to the upper bench of the Enchantment Zone to climb Prusik Peak, one that's been on my list for a long time. It met and exceeded all expectations. Great rock and a great position high above the alpine lakes. We couldn't have asked for better weather on this trip. Enjoy the photos!

Mt. Stuart 7.14.08 (Buck)

Mt. Stuart 7.14.08

I've been on an alpine binge lately, so eager to get outside after a winter of training. As soon as I returned from Mt. Jefferson there was an email from Nate asking if I had time for Mt. Stuart this week. The timing was tight so we decided to do a car to car (single push, no camping), leaving bivy gear behind in favor of moving fast and light.

We left Portland at 9:30 pm on Sunday night and got to the trailhead at 2:30am. We began hiking immediately on limited sleep. This turned out to be a bad idea. The next 18 hours proved to be a grueling ordeal, one of the hardest physical feats I've ever endured. This peak is a big undertaking under any circumstances and on an hour's sleep it seemed impossible at times.

Mt. Stuart is a large granitic peak, a true gem for PNW climbers. With steep lines and clean rock it provides a virtual playground for the technical rock climber. Add a four hour approach and a four hour deproach and you have a very long day. The last hike up Long's Pass at hour 17 was a psychological and physical test at it's apex...is it ignoble to stop an hour from the car?...

The NW Face route we chose was not as good as advertised, though it did provide moments of joy. Nate and I agreed, however, that the route did not warrant the great effort of getting to it and then off the mountain. Regardless, it was good to become familiar with this peak, as it's reputation is known worldwide among climbers. Next time, a bivy on route would make this trip a lot more fun. Though it was interesting to realize what the body is capable of when pushed to the limit.

Mt. Jefferson 7.10.08 (Buck)

Mt. Jefferson 7.10.08

Mt. Jefferson, considered by some a "manlier" version of it's northern neighbor Mt. Hood. If manlier means gritty, dangerous, and more of an undertaking to summit then yes, it is a damn manly mountain.

The route we took was the Jefferson Park Glacier. It is easily the most interesting route on the mountain as it combines multiple alpine techniques including glacier travel and technical rock skills.

For this trip I met a new partner, introduced through a mutual friend. Jason turned out to be a great climbing partner as our styles and strengths seemed to compliment one another well. And just ask this guy about Spotted Owls, he'll teach you how to call for 'em if you want to know.

We started the morning on the Jeff Park Glacier, leaving high camp at 3am. By 5 am the sun was rising as we were negotiating the first of two bergschrunds (large crevasse). This led us to steep glacier travel of about 50 degrees up to the col at the top of the JPG. From there we simulclimbed the Knife Edge Ridge (5.1), with laughable exposure, about 2,000ft. drop on each side! Hey, it was laugh or poop, might as well have fun with it. After the technical ridge we continued along the rim until the second arete and then the summit pinnacle. Again we simulclimbed the pinnacle 4th-low 5th class and found ourselves on the summit.

The descent turned out to be the most hair-raising portion of the climb and for details there, I'll refer you to our trip report on cascadeclimbers.com.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=816050

All in all this is easily one of my favorite alpine routes. The diversity and beauty of the mountain keeps one engaged at all times. As for the manly factor, heck yes, there were moments that felt more like a bar fight than a stroll in the hills. As for going back for more, you betcha.

Idaho Sawtooths 6/20-27 (Buck)

After a change in plans due to weather, the boys (Donn, Chad, Nate, and I) decided to head to Idaho's Sawtooth Mountains. Where the weather is always perfect! We had a great week, tagged a few summits, and enjoyed time in a beautiful environment. Some days were big. A nine hour push up Mt. Heyburn and a 12.5 hour day on Finger of Fate. Warbonnet Peak found the four of us in an alpine cirque all to ourselves with a sunset to beat all the evening after our summit. It certainly made our aching feet and hands a little more bearable (the whiskey helped, too).
All in all a fantastic "concession" to our earlier plans, with plenty more to do in the future.
For those unfamiliar, click the picture above to view the photo album. Enjoy!

I love summertime! (Pixie)

It's been yet another beautiful day. Unfortunately I had to work 9-5, and it really cut into my "outside" time. I had the best intentions to get out and at least go to the gym after work, but after busting my butt for the last 8 hours, I ended up just going straight home. I felt guilty.
And then...Lisa called! She wanted to go for a ride. My reaction was "Yeah!" I had 20 minutes to get ready and then I remembered that Lisa doesn't go for leisurely rides. We met behind OMSI and sprinted along the length of the Springwater trail. We were headed for the cemetery just on the west side of Tacoma. It's one of Lisa's favorite spots and my most dreaded. Hills upon hills upon hills, and when I think I've had enough and my stomach is telling me to stop or I'll vomit, there are more hills upon hills. Lisa cranks up them like it's no big thing, and I just want to die.
We came out the back side of the cemetery to Boones Ferry rd to connect with Terwilliger. More rolling hills, loooooooong rolling hills, but more tolerable than heading through the cemetery. To be honest, I was a little sad when I knew the hills were done and it was a breezy downhill coast to my house (though not sad enough to go back and do another lap...).

Share your bike routes @ Bikely.com

-Meg

A beautiful day for a ride (Pixie)

Springwater Trail to 205

Share your bike routes @ Bikely.com

With James roaming around Idaho with the boys my schedule has become wider than wide open. With the sun covered with clouds and a nice cool breeze, yesterday was the most fantastic day for a bike ride. It took most of the morning to decide where I was going to go, Portland is not full of car-less riding, but I eventually decided upon the tired ol' Springwater Trail. It's there, it's easy...It's also apparently full of dirty old PGE workers who couldn't resist hollering at a girl in spandex.
Aside from that the ride was amazing! The trail was full of wildflowers and I managed to spot a Blue Heron (or so I think) standing in Johnson Creek. I really wish I had brought my camera along, though it would have seriously impacted the workout.
Unfortunately, the 205 path access points from the Springwater Trail were all closed off, and I had no choice but to turn around and take the same trail home. It's never as fun as exploring.

2 hours and 25 miles later I made it back in time for a much needed nap.